Exhaust fumes, garden hoses and closed garage doors seems an extreme reaction folks. Surfing is generally the antithesis of depression and despair. Yet, after days – if not weeks – of unbridled mediocrity, it’s difficult not to lose one’s patience.
Trident has firmly established the surf is not always 6 foot and cranking. In fact, it’s not always 4 foot and cranking. Nor is it even 4 foot much of the time. No, oftentimes it’s a barely surfable, 1 to 2 foot and about as powerful as a gurgling drain. Many surfers would simply shake their heads in bemused disgust and head off home to the family or go on a 3 day long groupie and booze binge until Neptune grants them the privilege of decent waves again. As far as Trident is concerned, this is a problem. Not the 3 day groupie and booze binge thing – that clearly is a problem – no, we’re referring to many surfers turning their noses up at less than ideal conditions.
Let’s call it “greener grass’ syndrome. Again, nothing to do with bingeing on any substance to be clear. Greener grass syndrome simply refers to the common human misconception of the “next time” being better. Or the “next place” will be better, or “next winter” or whatever. Surfing is all about the present, so this author feels any concept of an idealised future is disingenuous and sets an easy precedent of not simply accepting the surf conditions on any given day, and paddling out with the simple, pure aim of having a jol. Trident has also fallen victim to this syndrome. Many times. In fact, the transition from student to working stiff was especially tricky for this author. Trident had a 5 day week at varsity, right next to PE’s Pipe. Yes, PE’s Pipe – but there were waves more often than not close by. So, working full time, away from the beach and within the time constraint’s of The Man’s 8 – 5 workday – it was all too easy to fall into the trap of not surfing after work, ‘coz the conditions were lamentable. Weekends would be tough too. Often no swell during the weekend, or hangovers from 3 day groupie and booze binges. Or other commitments. Like charity work. Pfft.
Our point is clear though. Unless you’re a full time surfer (and even then not every day will present perfect conditions) making money as a pro or surf instructor/coach or black market resin dealer or something, you have to find a way to motivate yourself to surf in, well, not to put too fine a point on it – utter crap. Onshore. Small. Gutless. Crowded. Polluted.
Remember hard lockdown? When any sane surfer would sell their stash of pineapple beer for one day of 2 foot slop? Yeah. Exactly. If lockdown has taught us anything, your next surf is never guaranteed. On your death bed, do you think you’ll ever regret not having surfed more, while you could, even when it was less than perfect? As you start seeing “the Light” do you think you’ll care it wasn’t always 6 foot an barrelling, but when you could surf – you always did? Life gets in the way of good waves all the darn time folks. Whether it’s work, your kids, your significant other, illness or injury, lockdown, traffic, your conscience, your parole officer, your long-suffering therapist, Klingons, the cast of Friends, Jehovah’s witnesses, wandering livestock, carnival folk, flatulent Beerfest patrons, poltergeists – just living an average day is filled with things that stop you surfing when you really want to. So get off your high horse when it comes to your average, and less-than-average surf – and make sure you get out there. Every time you surf, it’s good practice and fitness, despite the conditions. If you don’t put in the hard yards when it’s difficult to motivate yourself to get out there – you sure as hell won’t be ready for the better surfing days.
Jogging, exercising at home or at gym, paddling in the pool, skipping rope, skipping class or work, skipping daintily in the meadows while smelling the flowers – nothing gets you surfing ready like surfing itself. So stop whining when it’s mediocre. Get out there and surf.
