In Part One of our articles on surf injuries, Trident’s final point was on the mishaps that can occur when one literally begins paddling out. So let’s resume just after that, shall we? You’ve battled and braved the elements during your initial paddle out, and are now safely settled in the surf lineup. Even if a purple-faced local is screaming at you for getting in their way, for all purposes you’ve reached Stage 2 of your surf; ie: actually surfing.
The dangers of the surf lineup are often underestimated and cannot be understated. There are a myriad of hazards around; from rogue waves and currents, to deadly sea life, to severe sunburn, fatigue, dehydration and of course – other surfers. So let’s take the time to discuss some of the lineup dangers in more detail.
The sea itself.
Well, this one should be fairly obvious, but just ask a group of German backpackers why they’re attempting their first ever surf in 6 foot waves barrelling over a 2 foot ledge and the answer you’ll most likely receive is “I’m a good swimmer.” Well, that’s like saying most of us can spell our own names correctly, so we can all go ahead and win the Nobel Prize for literature. Or run a surf humour website. Anyway, the inexperienced do sometimes seem to have a vague clue about the dangers of rip currents and shallow breaking waves. However, only until one is swept out to sea wailing like a five year old who dropped their ice cream does one really feel the practical effects of water danger. Likewise, a hard breaking wave landing on your lower back like a watery sjambok will wise you up to this fact quickly.
In a nutshell, most injuries that can occur from the sea itself are obvious. Drowning and fatigue, and the occasionally “how’s your undercarriage” from a solid set wave. Pay attention to the currents before paddling out. Watch for bigger, random waves. Be absolutely clear of where any rocks may be. And still be prepared to get it all wrong.
Deadly sea life.
Sharks. Obvious. But honestly, there is not much you can do to avoid contact with this fearsome predator in the first place. However, Trident certainly recommends not surfing in dirty water, near fishing harbours, near seal colonies – nor near where ritual animal sacrifice regularly takes place on the beach. True story, Port St Johns.
Speaking of seals though, these cute and sleek sea critters have been implicated in several attacks along our shores of late. Said attacks seem to occur when a seal is pregnant and is protecting themselves and their unborn pups. Or perhaps, seals simply don’t think we’re as cute as we see them, and feel a pressing urge to bite the living crap outta us. Seal bites and scratches can be just as gnarly as dog bites. So, if you see a sleek black bundle of overwhelming cuteness, overcome the urge to pat it or whatever similar stupidity goes through people’s minds.
Seals – like wolves, lions, bears, snakes, eagles, sharks, South African All Black supporters and meerkats – are wild animals. Wild animals are well – wild. You wouldn’t try stroke a leopard, would you? And speaking of leopards – if you see a leopard seal, immediately vacate the sea and clench your sphincter. Those things are utterly terrifying. They come from Antarctica and resemble dragons. Give us an oversized fish any day.
Sunburn, fatigue and dehydration.
Trident is lumping these all together as we’re mostly just too lazy to research each in any great detail. Sunburn alone must account for some of the most obvious but overlooked harm in surfing. Indeed, we dedicated an entire article to it back in the day (Ed’s note: I really dig the title illustration on that article.) Still, we cannot overstate the importance of avoiding sunburn. Sunblock, or you’ll look like an excavated mummy by the time you’re 33. Trident saw a youngster in the water the other day, whose pink freckled face looked like it was moulting. This is not a good start in your skin’s life, people.
Fatigue and dehydration are not always one and the same, but often go hand in hand. You haven’t drunk enough water – you get tired more quickly. You’re tired as balls because you were watching the WSL heats until 1:00am in vague hopes of winning your fantasy league. Sadly of course, your chances went down the drain when the last of your surfers got eliminated. Or you’re fatigued from drinking lots of green beer until sunrise on St Paddy’s Day. In which case you’re both knackered and in dire need of hydration.
Other surfers.
Fins. Surfboard noses. Logs. Surfboard rails. Surfboard tails. Leashless logs on a collision course with everyone. Leashes wrapped around one’s neck for accidentally burning the heaviest local out there. (Or wrapped around on purpose, if the guy with leash-tied neck is saying, “more daddy, more!”) If you haven’t yet been angered by/angered another surfer, you’re doing this whole thing wrong. But anger is one thing, injuries are another. Never underestimate the power of another surfer and/or their equipment to do some damage. Oh boy.
