Unless you’ve been living your entire life in a soviet research station in the Arctic or have the IQ of krill, you’ll be well versed in the physical health aspects of surfing. However, the mental health benefits of riding a piece of foam on an ocean wave are only just being taken seriously.
Now, Trident is not suggesting surfing will cure serious mental illnesses. But, perhaps if Hannibal Lecter had practiced forensic psychology in Hawaii he would’ve taken up surfing instead of cannibalism. Who’s to say. Anyhow, he is a fictional character. Although thanks to covid, we all resemble him a little while wearing our masks. I digress.
Surfing is very much about the moment, all zen stuff aside. It’s hard to be anywhere but in the absolute present when you’re getting tubed or you’re staring down a rogue ten foot wave after you’ve just duck dived five six footers in a row. When it’s crowded and small, it’s difficult to imagine that this sport of kings is any good for your mental health, but apparently the science is in – and it’s sound. You focus on the moment, whether it’s a barrelling wave or finding the perfect section to smack. You forget about work problems, money issues, interpersonal problems, the fact that you forgot to turn off the stove. In short; your problems on land stay on land when you paddle out. It’s hard to worry about your next quarterly meeting, even for two minutes – as you paddle at lightspeed to avoid a cleanup set on your noggin. Focusing on the Right Now is very much a meditative concept; good for your mental health. The mental health of everyone else (spouses, children, pets, parole officers etc) living near a surfer is questionable though, but that’s their problem – not ours.
Here’s a biological aspect of surfing and mental health. Serotonin and dopamine are the two “happy” hormones produced by the body, affecting moods, memory, learning and various other positive aspects of being a biological entity. Fun fact about serotonin – one of the effects of ingesting it can result in diarrhoea. Truth. Do some research if you feel Trident is lacking in the integrity department. It may help explain why constipated people are so dreadfully unhappy, physical discomfort aside. Again, I digress. Point is, serotonin and dopamine are basically two chemicals that make us feel happy. The rewards in surfing are not constant; the awesome feeling we get after landing an air, or getting tubed, or surfing a big wave. Therein lies the crux of surfing’s positive affect on our mental health – the constant striving for the emotional rewards is a fulfilling (and sometimes heavily frustrating) pursuit. Sometimes, the mere fact one is trying to find these elusive feel-good hormones becomes therapy in itself. Not to mention the obvious feel-good aspects of the exercise involved.
I dunno about you lot, but for the most part the hundreds of surfers from all over the world I have met seem fairly well adjusted compared to the general populace. Sure, there’s a coupla flat-earthers in there, who seem to think waves are magically formed from pixie dust and unused vaccinations and not from distant storms and wind sometimes from halfway around the globe away, but surfers definitely appear to have a firm grip on their mental health. So instead of dropping thousands on expensive meds and/or time consuming therapy; consider spending that money on an epoxy board from your local shaper. It may not cure your OCD, but it will make you feel better. Especially if you if you make sure you always get an even number of waves per session.
So next time your spouse, or parents, or kids, or boss, or coworkers, or fellow cult members, or anyone else gives you uphill about surfing – be sure to show them this article. Coz it’s either surfing or eating people. And I know what my choice would always be. And I’m the most well adjusted person I know. (Editor’s note: apart from the people buffet.)
