When all surfing was done on 12 foot carved logs in 2 foot white water, the concept of frontside and backside surfing would only have been referred to in the context of streaking. Obviously though, as all things are wont to do; surfboard equipment and technology was to improve. Wooden totem poles became foam and fibreglass totem poles. Suddenly, surfers had boards far more akin to what we’d ride today. Surfboards became more manoeuvrable. Suddenly surfers could do more than merely allow themselves to be propelled by broken white water.
Suddenly, surfers were presented with clean, open-faced walls of water ahead of them on which to ply their craft. As the shortboard revolution began some years after the initial foam revolution, surfers were once again presented with parts of this wall of water that was inaccessible on the older longer boards. Barrels and moves off the lip became achievable. Wahoo.
Children of a few Revolutions.
However, somewhere between these two peaceful revolutions in surfing, there was a stage back in the early days where being goofy footed was considered weird. Like beatniks, hippies, paying more than 50 cents for a loaf of bread and wearing speedo-like trunks while surfing. Seriously Dear Reader, you may think Trident is making this up – but this is documented truth.
So, in a surfing world where surfing with your right foot forward was considered quirkier than those weirdos who insisted on wearing helmets when riding motorcycles, what hope would the humble left hand break have of being the preferred wave of choice?
Even as we write this, Trident realises how odd it all is, although at the time it was totally normal. You were essentially natural footed, as at the time, goofy footers were shunned as if they were leprous second-hand clothing peddlers. Also, if you could surf a wall of water, why would you choose to paddle out at a place where your arse would be pointed firmly towards the wave? Instead of pointing said arse at the beach as nature intended?
I’ll backhand you, bru.
Indeed, riding switch foot on lefts was preferable to surfing backhand. Just think about that for a moment. That’s sorta like preferring to drive in reverse ‘coz you don’t like taking left turns. Or right turns,. Whatever. Bizarre is what we label it. Well, thankfully this was all to change very rapidly. With the advent of radical at the time surfers such as Shaun Tomson et al, going backside became a measure of true surfing ability. Not just something for the top guys. Although he was one of the top guys.
Trident still experiences surfers in the water saying stuff like, “I can’t go left, I only want the rights.” Even if said rights are mushier than the porridge you ate at boarding school.
“Oh well,’ Trident reckons. “It’s a bummer I have to take this clean four footer on my backhand. Still, I’ll take one for the team then Mr I-Only-Go-Right. You can thank me later. Just call me a humanitarian.”
