Surfing is tricky. Non-surfers are probably blissfully unaware of the frustration involved in surfing. Flat spells, incorrect winds, time commitments when it’s firing, your skill level plateauing, paddling and duck diving when the conditions are heavy, localism, crowds, kooks, sharks, barnacles, E. coli infestations, skelms breaking into your car while you’re surfing, crotch rash, surf wax everywhere – your car, your house, your hair, your unmentionables, hipsters with the world’s worst bum-fluff moustaches in the lineup – the list grows ever long.
Yet through it all, there are some less obvious aspects of surfing which can have an oddly calming effect on a surfer’s soul. So although Trident has covered surfing frustrations in plenty of ways plenty of times over the years (here’s a previous article), let’s delve into a few strangely soothing aspects of this whole surfing gig.
Number 1: South Africa is an intensely wave-rich, relatively uncrowded surf mecca.
Honestly, Trident doesn’t care what you think – in global surfing terms, 20 people in a surf lineup is not a crowd. Sure, at certain spots, that rugby team plus subs number – more or less – can feel a bit much, if the take-off zone is about the size of a parking space. (Tubes, we see you.) Even 30 isn’t a crowd. Check out Trestles. A few hundred surfers. Snapper Rocks? Even more. Check out Pipeline’s crowds, if you dare. But that’s the point we are making about South Africa.
Our mad country is one of the best and most famous surfing nations in the world, yet even its most crowded spots can’t compare to the circuses elsewhere in the world. Plus, if we’re pointing out the obvious – plenty of surf spots abroad do not have our wave quality. Even our lesser known spots pretty much beat most others for quality, consistency, lack of real crowds and accessibility. Put that in your pipeline and smoke it.
Number 2: Dane Reynolds.
If you’re even slightly into surfing subculture, you know who this oke is. Dane is simply an individual, and they don’t always make ‘em like this guy any more. Sublimely talented, he gave up the Championship Tour, to focus – well, on surfing. If that sounds a paradox, well – think about it. It makes sense. On the Tour, ou’s are chasing points, freaking out about making the mid-year cut (thank goodness that kak idea is finally put to rest for 2026), freaking out about qualifying for the following year – surfing itself takes a back seat to all that. Dane had enough, and decided to go old school – opening an old fashioned core surf shop, Chapter 11, and focussed on the small things that makes one happy. As we all should, Trident suggests we all learn from Dane Reynolds, team.
Number 3: Sterling Spencer.
If you’re even slightly into surfing subculture, you know who this oke is. For those who don’t – Mr Spencer is a former pro turned mainly podcaster alongside his cousin Ryan. Their whole concept is gently poking fun at surfing as well as surfing adjacent stuff, and it really works. Sterling suffered a brain injury some time ago, and actually had to learn how to simply walk again, so him surfing is something of a miracle. Now, many may find his slightly stoned sounding voice annoying and contrived, but it really is relaxing as well as infectious watching/listening to these two have a bit of a chuckle about wave riding. And Laird Hamilton. And sometimes Occy. Just don’t get Sterling started on the Moon Landing.
Number 4: In the lineup – just take a moment to appreciate nature and your surroundings.
Unless you’re in a wavepool of course. Still, we’re sure some wavepools worldwide have some decent scenery. Say, maybe the one in Switzerland? Doesn’t it have a view of the Alps? Anyway. Point is, maybe you’re not having a good day – or – perish the thought -a good surf. Just take a moment. Immerse yourself in the ocean vibe. Check out that moody horizon – or that bright blue sky. Check out the dolphins, the fish, the seabirds. Look back to the beach. How dazzling is that sand? Look at those beautiful green hills sparkling in the late afternoon sun? How friendly are the folks in the parking lot? Hey what’s that guy doing with that crowbar and my car?!
Number 5: There’s always a chance of another surf.
So, your last surf sucked. You bogged rail nonstop, you caught close out after close out, your wax was slippery, then you got into an argument over which wax brand is best, you stood up on your leash on every second take-off you got your middle fin lodged in your left buttock after a failed air reverse attempt. You get back to your car and a window is smashed. Yet the car guard still wants his bucks. Why do you do this to yourself? Surfing sucks bru! But before storming off in your newly customised car, you happen to glance back at the sea. Wow. You see a perfect set out there, breaking further to the left on the draining tide where nobody else is. You froth. And paddle back out. Hey, maybe the second surf will be better.
